Semi stand developing 120 black and white film
I have been developing black and white film since 1971, but it wasn't until just a couple of months ago, that for the first time I tried a method of film developing known as semi stand development. So far I have only tired this method with larger medium format sized film as compared to using it for 35mm. The cameras I primarily shoot when using 120 medium format film are my plastic Holga 120N and a wooden Kingpin 6x12 multi-format pinhole camera. They both seem to be perfect candidates for this method of film developing.
 
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My Holga 120 and Kingpin 6X12 pinhole camera were perfect candidates for stand or semi stand developing |
This method requires using a highly concentrated film developer such a Rodinal. A classic film developer that has been around forever. I mix a very weak 1:100 dilution of this developer, then pour it into the developing tank and after an initial agitation of around 15-20 seconds I then let it stand for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes I would take the developing tank and give it just one gentle full rotation, which I would then repeat that exact same agitation method at the 40 minute mark, then let the tank stand for another 20 minutes to complete a full 1 hour development stage of the process.
Comparing this to a standard developing method, which generally calls a stronger mixture or dilution of film developer, giving it regular intervals of agitation, such as 5 or 10 seconds each minute during the development stage of the process. For myself and the films speeds I shoot, along with the developers I use, developing times can range anywhere from 5 1/2 minutes to around 16 minutes, opposed to 1 hour for stand of semi stand developing. Then after the development period of either method, moving on to the next steps, stop bath, fixer, water rinse ,then hang the film to dry.
Holga 120N - Kentmere 400 - semi stand in Rodinal 1:100 |
Kingpin pinhole camera - Kentmere 100 - semi stand Rodinal 1:100 |
From my research, understanding and results in using this method, I have pretty much concluded, that due to the weak solution and long developing time, the results usually produce a negative with flatter contrast and increased latitude, there by potentially better preserving both highlight and shadow detail. Which gives quite a bit of leeway when editing in Photoshop or darkroom printing to ones personal taste. This method of film developing also allows you to develop two different film speeds at the same time in which I have developed both Kentmere 100 and 400 ( both rated at their box speeds ) in the same developing tank. Be aware though that this process will also produce a grainier negative. To this point, for me working with the larger 120 sized negatives, it has not been an issue. 35mm negatives on the other hand, it might be but of course resulting film grain and how prominent it becomes is a truly matter of personal taste. In time I may also give 35mm at try.
Holga 120N - Kentmere 400 - Semi stand - Rodinal 1:100 |
So far I have really enjoyed the results that I have gotten when shooting 120 film and doing semi stand developing, and if you would like more details on how I develop my film normally as well as how I do my semi stand development in Rodinal as well a newer eco friendly concentrated film developer called Black/White and Green. I will leave two links in which you can check out my videos. I'll go into further detail as well as show you some of my results
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Once again thanks for viewing my blog and if you check out my videos, I thank you so much for that also :-)